Crisis in the Vineyards: 2025 brings a new test to the resilience of Portuguese viticulture.

The Portuguese wine sector, like that of other European countries, is facing a critical period of transformation.

The current crisis is not limited to climatic or economic factors—it is, above all, structural and identity-related. Alcohol consumption is declining, increasingly compared to tobacco in terms of public health, especially following WHO guidelines.

Samuel Montgermont, president of Vin & Société, issued a compelling warning: only 6% of consumers account for 55% of consumption in France. The current model is exhausted—if nothing changes, the projection is for collapse within a decade.

Changes in consumption habits

The traditional 750ml bottle format is losing ground. Modern consumers seek practicality and affordability, favoring alternatives such as bag-in-box and smaller volumes. However, there is resistance: in Portugal, any packaging that is not traditional raises doubts about the quality of the wine. But the future demands adaptation.

Although young people reject canned wine, innovative products such as flavored wines and wine-based cocktails have gained traction, offering a lighter and more accessible approach. The acceptance of previously unthinkable practices—such as adding ice or water to wine—reflects an openness to new experiences.

Between low-alcohol and non-alcoholic wine

This category doesn't attract new consumers, it only attracts existing ones. On the other hand, non-alcoholic wine attracts broader audiences, standing out as a strategic opportunity.

Stagnant market and infrastructure in crisis.

Even with smaller harvests and vine uprooting in some countries, prices remain low. This shows that supply no longer dictates the market. The absence of a positive impact reveals a structural crisis. Large-scale distribution has lost relevance, and more complex and expensive channels—such as e-commerce and specialty stores—are taking its place.

Consumers want organic, sparkling wines with identified origins and from small producers. Those who don't meet this profile suffer more.

The challenge of reinvention.

The OIV (International Organisation of Vine and Wine) is clear: the vineyard itself is not in crisis. Wine is consumed in more countries than ever before. Further reducing production without reshaping the portfolio is economically ineffective. The solution lies in supporting the reformulation of the offer, focusing on innovation, product profile, packaging, and sales channels.

Investments in dealcoholization centers, more modern wine profiles, and grafting for increased white wine production are possible alternatives.

2026: The year of change?

The success of 2026 will depend not only on the economic environment, but also on the wine sector's ability to innovate. Support from public authorities will be crucial—few producers have the resources to invest on their own.

The crisis in the vineyard is, above all, a call for renewal. Persisting in the same strategies will lead to decline, because, as a law of Quantum Physics states, everything that does not grow dies!

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WRITTEN BY:

Pedro Fernandes

Pedro Fernandes is a Portuguese winemaker who has been involved in viticulture since he was 11 years old, where he started making his first wines with his father and doing tasks such as pruning.

Since then he has never stopped and in 2018 he decided to dedicate himself to the wine sector, starting by doing "everything backwards". He began by taking wine specialization courses such as WSET (Direct Wine) and Wine Expertise (ISAG) in 2018/2019. Then he graduated from the University of Nebrijia in Madrid, obtaining an MBA in Oenology (2020). In 2021, at the age of 39, he decided to pursue a Bachelor's degree in Oenology (UTAD), and against all odds, he finished the course in 2024.

Along the way, he created his first personal wine brand - Chãos - and completed an internship at the prestigious Chateau Latour (in Bordeaux).

Currently, he works as a consultant in the wine sector, where he plays a role not only as an oenologist, but also in creating business strategies for wine producers, with a current vision of the market, which includes resources from Digital Marketing and Wine Tourism.