What if the Douro River were in France?

Bordeaux and Burgundy are arguably the two most prestigious wine regions in the world. Known for the excellence of their wines, these French regions enjoy a global reputation that allows them to dominate the market and dictate trends. If the Douro Valley were located on French soil, could it be a third top region, alongside Bordeaux and Burgundy?

To begin with, the Douro is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world. Located in northern Portugal, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a recognition of its cultural and scenic importance. Its slopes are steep, the soils are schistous, and it has a unique microclimate, which creates ideal conditions for cultivating vines and producing high-quality wines in different styles, considering that it has three sub-regions with distinct characteristics. Furthermore, the Douro boasts an impressive diversity of native grape varieties, such as Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, Tinto Cão, Touriga Franca, and Tinta Barroca, in the case of the red varieties, which are the basis for the production of a wine that is also unique in the world – Port wine .

Wine Culture and Politics: France vs. Portugal

French winemaking culture is marked by a deep respect for tradition, rigorous regulations, and sophisticated marketing. French appellations of origin (AOCs) ensure high quality standards and help maintain the reputation of the regions. Furthermore, France invests significantly in promoting its wines internationally, which is reflected in the strong presence of French wines in global markets.

In contrast, Portugal, despite its long winemaking tradition and the undeniable quality of its wines, faces challenges in the international promotion and enhancement of its regions. The lack of significant investment in marketing contributes to lower visibility of Portuguese wines on the international stage.

Mentality and Culture: Portugal vs. France

Beyond structural and economic issues, people's mentality and culture play a crucial role in how a wine region is perceived and valued. In Portugal, we often face a cultural tendency towards self-criticism and a lack of mutual support. Instead of uniting to promote and value our national riches, there is a propensity to highlight flaws and limitations, creating an environment that can be perceived as disloyal and averse to change. It is no coincidence that the last word of the book "Os Lusíadas" written by Luís de Camões is "envy" .

When I did my internship in France, at one of the best châteaux in the world, we had times of day when we took a break: a kind of picnic in the vineyard or inside the cellar. We savored those "French cheeses" (and yes, the French are completely crazy about cheese) and various charcuterie along with a different wine every day. One day we tasted a wine from a "competitor" of Châteaux Pichon Baron , and everyone, without exception, spoke highly of the wine. If it were in Portugal, they would immediately find fault with it or devalue the wine compared to their own product.

Regarding winemaking internships, it's interesting to consider that in Portugal there's a labor shortage at that stage, and that colleagues of mine sent emails requesting internships at Portuguese companies, and one, two, three years later they didn't even receive a response. On the other hand, whatever email you send to a French producer, I assure you that you will receive a response, even if it's negative. "No" is a valid response that helps us deal with the situation and, above all, shows respect for the person upstream. Marketing rules dictate that communication is an important aspect of brand promotion. Responding to an email is also a form of communication.

We are a markedly envious people, averse to fear and change, with closed minds and "unquestionable" ideas (of the type "I know best" and "it's always been done this way")...

The most curious thing is that, historically, during the Age of Discoveries, the Portuguese were known for their courage, innovation, and adventurous spirit. They were pioneers, ready to explore new worlds and embrace radical change. However, over the centuries, this progressive mentality seems to have diminished, giving way to a certain conservatism and fear of change.

This closed-mindedness and aversion to risk can be seen as an obstacle to the development and appreciation of regions like the Douro. In contrast, in France, the tradition of valuing and promoting regional products is deeply rooted in the culture. The French are proud of their winemaking heritage, are highly nationalistic (defending their language, homeland, and flag), and work collectively to ensure that French wines receive the recognition they deserve, and not just the wines from their own estate.

Douro in France: A Revolution in Perception

If the Douro Valley were located in France, it would likely be considered one of the world's leading wine regions, alongside Bordeaux and Burgundy. The combination of the Douro's intrinsic potential with France's regulatory framework, marketing power, and a more open-minded approach could catapult this region to the top of the wine world.

The Douro could then enjoy the same attention and respect that Bordeaux and Burgundy receive, attracting investors, renowned winemakers, and wine enthusiasts from all over the world. Douro wines would be featured in international auctions, listed on the menus of the best restaurants, and sought after by collectors.

Unfortunately, being located in Portugal, the Douro region still doesn't receive the recognition it deserves. Despite its evident potential, the region struggles to stand out in a global market dominated by French, Italian, and Spanish wines. This situation is not just a matter of quality, but also of international perception and valuation. A lack of investment in promotion and a robust marketing strategy are barriers preventing the Douro from achieving the renown enjoyed by Bordeaux and Burgundy.

The work that has been done is fundamentally "ant-like," that is, slow and arduous. But if we take the example of the ant, we see that ants work in community. They capture food for the anthill and not just for themselves, they never give up despite the circumstances, and they never complain about the weather conditions. Perhaps if we thought and acted more like an ant, we could grow and highlight our wines on the international scene.

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WRITTEN BY:

Pedro Fernandes

Pedro Fernandes is a Portuguese winemaker who has been involved in viticulture since he was 11 years old, where he started making his first wines with his father and doing tasks such as pruning.

Since then he has never stopped and in 2018 he decided to dedicate himself to the wine sector, starting by doing "everything backwards". He began by taking wine specialization courses such as WSET (Direct Wine) and Wine Expertise (ISAG) in 2018/2019. Then he graduated from the University of Nebrijia in Madrid, obtaining an MBA in Oenology (2020). In 2021, at the age of 39, he decided to pursue a Bachelor's degree in Oenology (UTAD), and against all odds, he finished the course in 2024.

Along the way, he created his first personal wine brand - Chãos - and completed an internship at the prestigious Chateau Latour (in Bordeaux).

Currently, he works as a consultant in the wine sector, where he plays a role not only as an oenologist, but also in creating business strategies for wine producers, with a current vision of the market, which includes resources from Digital Marketing and Wine Tourism.